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I've had that Greg Brown song in my head for days... "so you say you're going away to china, china, chimay, far away". Unlike the song, I know when I am leaving china- waiting now in the airport fo LA - but I have a feeling this is not the last time I will travel in this country.

I've been surrounded this past week by a people in the grip of patriotic furvor- you can see it in their faces as they walk and wave theirini flags, wearing heart stickers with the flag and "60" in gold, as they take photos of each other ad nauseum in Tiananmen square and in front of chairman Mao's portrait. And holy crow, there are a lot of people. I was told that everyone leaves BJ during national holiday week (making it impossible to travel elsewhere in China)- but I think the opposite happened this time. I feel kind of privileged to have been a tourist in the presence of so many local tourists; even though overwhelming, it was a sight to see.

Today I spent the morning walking along the street of calligraphers- not only art displayed, but also the shops where artists come to buy their inks, brushes, and rice paper. I watched a few at work- quiet, modest men, so different from the litany of shopkeepers jabbering "I make-a you a good price". One man reached the end of his scroll and, with an uncharacteristic flourish, stamped his bright red signature at the base.

Today I also fell in love with a teapot. The shopkeeper claimed it was Ming dynasty, around the 16th century, which I find hard to believe- but it certainly stood out (although the shopkeeper was very surprised I noticed it- I had to laugh when she guilelessly complimented that I had very good taste...for a foreigner). It was made of very fine clay, with a very worn grass tether from lid to handle, and large enough for at least 4 cups of tea. A very simple round shape, but perfect and proud- dark earthy color, but it may have had a red glaze at some point. It was impossible to tellthe true color-this was a well loved pot and many, many hands had worn at the surface until it had a dull sheen...really, the thing seemed to glow a bit under the desk lamp- I can't fully describe how special and captivating it seemed. I couldn't handle the1500 dollar asking price though, so had to settle for taking several loving pictures and walking away.

Of course I did spend some money for a fine meal... 3 guesses what I had for lunch... I went to a tiny hole in the wall that is reknowned for it's Peking Duck- the real deal. Tasty, tasty yum.

So long, Beijing, it's been fun!

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